Setubal is rich with history that dates back to the Roman era. It has been claimed that the town was found by a relative of Noah. The town has had a long and fruitful relationship with the sea that started in the first century AD. The town has a large protected harbor, being the third largest in Portugal. The high point of the town was in the Age of Discovery, as King Alfonso V set sail from its harbor on his way to conquer Alcacer Ceguer in Morocco.
Also throughout its long history, Setubal has been the foremost fishing port in the region. The prime commodity is sardines and its foremost spirit is muscatel wine. Despite its redevelopment with its pedestrian streets, fountains and parks, the focal point of the area is still the harbor. Right across the Rio Sado on the lagoon side is the Peninsular de Troia where the inland area lies the submerged ruins of Cetobriga. This former Roman town was destroyed by an earthquake and the tsunami that followed. It was well known as a fish-salting town but was abandoned as the river rose and the fishing supplies dried up. The many factories built to process the sardines from the city has been left in ruins outside the city. Setubal has always maintained an industrial center reputation and the current city government has been undertaking a major facelift of its industrial past in order to cash in on the tourist trade.
Another town in the Setubal area is Troia, which has been able to shed its sardine rich past to become a tourist haven. The town has become a large-scale tourist complex with many facilities to complement the beautiful beaches nearby. During the summer months, the full beauty and magnificence of the beaches of Setubal can be enjoyed. There are many several inlet beaches around the Serra da Arrabida or Arrabida Mountain Range, such as Praia Figuerinha and Praia da Arrabida. The Troia Resort though has dominated the locale as it is home to the world class Robert Trent golf course. The skyline will soon see new five star hotels, apartment hotels, a casino and conference center, and a country club with an equestrian center.
Riding on this crest of redevelopment are the many local businesses in the area. There is a well-known restaurant row in Setubal that is a strip of restaurants by the shore offering many great dishes at reasonable prices. Sardines are still a staple in the menu, but the current dish being raved about is the Chocos Fritos. This is simply fried cuttlefish, breaded, deep-fried and served with lemon wedges, fries and salad. This meal works best with beer or house white wine.
Despite the best efforts of the city council to redevelop the environs, there are still many places in and around Setubal that keep the traditions of the past alive in the modern era. The Cathedral Santa Maria de Graca is one of these edifices built in the 16th century. Many of the beautiful tiles from the 18th century grace the walls of the Cathedral. There is also the Igreja de Jesus, with its Gothic design and pink interior columns from the stone quarries of the Arrabida. The stonework is done in the typical rope style of the era, which is said to be founded by the King’s personal nurse. The Cathedral was designed by Diogo Boitac in 1494 designed in the Manueline style. The adjoining monastery has such an impressive collection of many 16th century paintings from all over the country. Another structure from the past is the Museu de Setubal that is housed in the Monasterio de Jesus. The museum showcases many religious artifacts and art, including the manuscripts of the famed Portuguese poet Bocage of the 18th century. Also showcasing the past of Setubal is the Museu de Arquelogia e Etnografia as its collection includes Bronze Age pots to the processing of cork. Another tourist attraction is the 16th century Castelo de Sao Filipe, which was built to defend the area from pirates and marauders. King Felipe II of Spain ordered the building of this star-shaped fort as his forces annexed Portugal. With the redevelopment, the fort has been renovated into the luxurious Pousada for the enjoyment of the tourists to the city. The only remnant of the original structure is the lovely chapel in the fort with its many azujelos that depict the life of the patron saint Felipe as well as the Virgin Mary. The tiles were done in the 1700s by Policarpio de Oliveira Bernades and this complements the antique furniture as well as magnificent views of the seashore and the horizon.
The surrounding estuary of the River Sado has also become a nature preserve for migratory birds and unique fish species called the Natural do Estuario do Sado. The park makes up the unique ecosystem of Setubal that are vast stretches of mudflats, small forests of pine trees and lagoons. This makes for a tranquil and relaxing tourist location just outside the city proper. To the west of the town is the famed Portinho da Arrabida, a large cove that faces south which is protected by the slopes from the north winds. Up these slopes is the Franciscan Monastery built in the 16th century. The monastery has been restored to its original splendor by the Fundacio Oriente which is now used as a Study Center.
Near the coastline is the 17th century fort that has been renovated into a small Sea and Marine Biology Center. To the south is the town of Alcacer do Sal that was once the province of Al-Cassr that was liberated by the Crusaders from the Moors. The Convento do Santo Antonio was built in the 16th century was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The fort was rebuilt together with the convent with its walls that stretch from Lisbon up all the way into the Alentejo.
The city of Cetubal like its predecessor the Roman town of Cetobriga has risen from its past ruins. Now, with the onset of the modern economy, it is reinventing itself to rise from the ruins.